The watch trends 2024 - Tops and flops

The year 2024 brought a wealth of exciting releases in the watch industry, with some spectacular timepieces stealing the show and others leaving enthusiasts scratching their heads. Here's a look at what dazzled and disappointed, along with some hopes for 2025.

Flop of the Year: The Patek Philippe Cubitus

Patek Philippe’s Cubitus was one of the most talked-about releases of 2024, marking a new addition to the brand's collection rather than an extension of the Nautilus family. Despite the intrigue surrounding its debut, the Cubitus failed to capture the hearts of enthusiasts. Attempting to reimagine the essence of the Nautilus’ iconic status is akin to redesigning the Porsche 911—bold but perilous. The Cubitus, with its bold design choices, felt like an overly ambitious experiment that lacked the refinement Patek is known for.

Top Releases of 2024

Piaget Polo 79
Piaget’s Polo 79 brought a fresh take on the luxury sports watch with a nod to the brand’s heritage. With its distinctive design and retro appeal, the Polo 79 perfectly balances vintage inspiration and contemporary aesthetics, securing its place as one of the standout releases of the year.

Picture taken from the Piaget Official Website.

Tudor Black Bay GMT
Tudor's Black Bay GMT continues to evolve, and the 2024 iteration was a step forward, although not perfect. While I loved its practicality and design, I would have preferred the removal of the gilt elements for a cleaner, more contemporary look.

Picture taken from the Tudor Official Website.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire
The Duomètre Quantième Lunaire stood out for its innovation and craftsmanship. It’s a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prowess in blending traditional watchmaking with modern functionality. This release reminded me why the brand holds such a special place in haute horology.

Picture taken from tendancehorlogerie.com Official Website.

Cartier Tortue Monopusher Chronograph
Cartier delivered a gem with the Tortue Monopusher Chronograph. Its vintage-inspired design, combined with Cartier’s signature elegance, made it an irresistible addition to the year’s highlights.

Picture taken from the Mr Watckley Official Website.

Vacheron Constantin Berkeley Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin pulled no punches with the Berkeley Grand Complication, arguably the most audacious release of 2024. This masterpiece of watchmaking is a tour de force of engineering and design, and it’s nothing short of a horological marvel.

Picture taken from the Vacheron Constentin Official Website.

Hopes for 2025

Looking ahead, there are several things I hope to see in the coming year:

Rolex Returns to Smaller Diameters
Rolex has been inching toward larger case sizes in recent years, but I’d love to see a return to more restrained diameters that retain the elegance and wearability the brand is known for.

Tudor Black Bay GMT in New Colors
The Black Bay GMT is a fan favorite, but it’s time for some fresh color combinations to expand its versatility. I’m eagerly anticipating a new palette that pushes boundaries.

Reverso Iterations with More Proportional Dimensions
While the Reverso is a classic, it’s time for Jaeger-LeCoultre to offer smaller, slimmer iterations that cater to modern tastes without compromising its iconic design.

2024 was a year of bold moves and occasional missteps, but it’s exciting to see brands continuing to push the envelope. Let’s hope 2025 brings the refinement and innovation that watch enthusiasts crave.

25/11/2025